Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
